I wanted an intercom system that would give me clear driver-to-passenger communications, music and radar detector audio inputs, and the ability to interface with a cellular phone and an FRS or CB radio. The system I chose, on the basis of multitudes of recommendations from IBMWR and the BMWR1100RT BBS, was the Autocom Eurocom. A perfect solution? Not really... but it's working out OK.
I started with the basic Eurocom model. Autocom also offers a "Pro" version, with a few more bells and whistles but no additional capacity for devices, which was my real concern. The Eurocom is set up for two headsets, music input, and one transceiver device. TopGear, the US distributor (888-851-4327), provided a modified transceiver extension with a jack for the radar detector, and an isolated audio cable to plug into the Valentine One's audio module. This works great, but at a cost - $100 just to add radar input!
One major problem with the Autocom units is the lack of isolation on the audio lines. This unit is VERY susceptible to ground loops - if, for instance, I have my cell phone plugged into bike power and tied into the Eurocom at the same time, the resulting hiss/pop/static overpowers conversations. Top Gear recommends that any transceiver be run from batteries, which is a cop-out solution in my opinion. They do at least offer the ground loop isolator for the radar detector, but that only works with audio inputs - not with a two-way device. I'm working on using 1:1 audio transformers to electrically isolate the tranceivers from the intercom, which is something Autocom should be doing anyway (especially for the price).
Audio volume is another gripe. The radar detector comes through loud and clear, and so does the FRS radio. The cell phone is OK without earplugs in, but with plugs, it's barely adequate. Music input from a standard walkman-style CD player is ridiculously low.
Two major high points on the Autocom unit is the microphones and the VOX circuit. When talking on the phone or FRS, even at extra-legal speeds, I have never had any difficulty being understood. In fact, I usually have to tell the person I'm talking to that I'm on a motorcycle - they think I'm in my car! The VOX circuit works lightning-fast, meaning that I never have the beginning of my sentences cut off when talking to my passenger, and when I set it to key the FRS using VOX, that works flawlessly as well. Using the optional PTT/Vox Mute switch, I can turn of the VOX transmit so that I can talk privately to my passenger without broadcasting our conversation.
I have both cellular and FRS on my bike, but the Eurocom only supports one or the other. For now, I have both cables bundled together just behind the headlight, so that I can switch from one to the other quickly (while stopped, of course!). I'm planning to work up a toggle switch to a relay to allow me to switch between them "on the fly".
I should have gone ahead and bought the Pro system. It "listens" to the wind noise through the driver's microphone, and adjusts the volume to be lower when the bike is moving slowly. This is a convenience, but not a major feature - TopGear tells me that the maximum loudness is really about the same between Eurocom and Pro; the Pro just turns things down for you when appropriate. The Pro also apparently has even better microphones, and has a music fader for driver/passenger - since my wife refuses to wear earplugs, this would be helpful. Major drawback to the Pro is that it requires a regulated 9V power supply, and doesn't use the headsets from the Eurocom - no upgrade path here!
The Eurocom, #4 in the
picture, is installed in the tail of the bike. I tied it into a fuse panel
(#1) that I got from Tulsa Accessories. The panel is powered through a 30A
relay (#2), which is tied straight to the battery (fused at the battery, of
course). Hint: it's easier to tap power from the starter
motor than the battery - my mechanic pointed that out to me at 600 mile
service. Learn from my mistake :-)
Installation was pretty straightforward. I routed wires along the right side of the bike, under the tank, and into the steering area. The driver's lead is long enough to extend up the front of the tank, where it's secured with a cable clamp fastened under an existing screw. The extensions provided by the radar interface and the PTT/Vox Mute interface give the transceiver lead enough length to end up just under the headlight, where I strapped it to a support tube. I put the FRS and Cell phone leads there as well, so by reaching up under the headlight (from in front of the bike), I can switch back and forth by feel.
I installed the PTT/Vox Mute switch on the left grip. I used a razor
saw to cut the bar-mount bracket off of
the switch, then used Radio Shack super-mount foam tape (strong stuff!) to mount
the switch as shown in the picture to the right. It's a very clean
installation - the switch doesn't look out of place at all. This switch is
handy if you use CB or FRS and carry a passenger. The VOX in the Eurocom
does a terrific job of keying the mike for you, but having the ability to turn
that feature off lets you have a private conversation with your passenger,
without broadcasting it over the 2-way. Just push the switch all the way
down for VOX, set it to the middle for manual PTT (easily actuated with your
left forefinger), or all the way up for constant transmit (why??? Who
knows. But you have the option).